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FIELD CARE

Gameheads  /  Birds  /  Fish  /  Snakes  /  Lifesize  /  Antler Mounts  /  European Mounts



GAME HEADS


1.  If you intend to mount the trophy you are hunting, obviously you would not
shoot the beast in the neck or facial area.  And more importantly, DO NOT
CUT THE THROAT.  I have always been amazed by the fact that so many
hunters feel the need to cut the throat of the animal and then expect their
Taxidermist to give them a high quality mount.  The quality of the finished
mount depends a great deal upon you and the care it was given in the field.

2.  If you do not know how to cape out the animal, take it to your local processor
and they should know how to properly cape it out.  Or, take the entire animal to
your Taxidermist and have him cape it out for you.  One important note; it is
always better to have too much skin than not enough.  So, if in doubt, take
more than you'll think you'll need.


3.  Avoid excessive dragging of the animal on the ground.  This will damage the
hair.

4.  Get the cape on ice as soon as possible and remember to keep it dry.

5.  If you can't get it to the Taxidermist immediately and choose to store it in your
freezer for the time being, wipe as much blood as possible from the hair and
keep it as dry as possible.  Moisture and bacteria will cause the hair to fall out
of the cape.  Double bag the head and tape the bag around the antler burrs or
horn bases to prevent air from entering the bag and causing freezer burn.   
Remember, extended time in your freezer will cause freezer burn which may
affect the finished mount.

6.   Click here to see an illustration and instructions on how to properly cape out
an animal to be mounted.


BIRDS


1.  If you intend to mount a bird you are hunting, avoid using large shot that will
severely damage the specimen (a Taxidermist can only work with what he is
given).  Also, avoid close shots if at all possible, for obvious reasons.  If you
hunt with dogs, do not let the dog mouth the bird excessively, if at all.

2.  Upon retrieval of the bird, pack the mouth and nostrils with cotton or toilet
tissue. This will keep blood and body fluids off the feathers.   Also, clean
as much blood off the feathers as you can.  This will help prevent staining of
the feathers and bacteria growth, which promotes slippage.

3.  Never place a bird to be mounted in your gamebag.  At this point, the less
damage we inflict upon the specimen, the better off we will be in the long run.

4.  If you can't get the bird to the Taxidermist immediately, place the bird
head first into a pair of your wife's old panty hoses (this keeps the feathers
lying flat and secure to the body), place into two plastic bags, seal and place in
your freezer.

5.  Get the bird to a Taxidermist as soon as possible.   Keeping the bird in your
freezer for an extended period of time could result in freezer burn of the feet
and facial areas, and this could affect the overall appearance of your finished
mount.

FISH


1.  First and foremost, DO NOT GUT THE FISH.   Do not cut the fish anywhere.

2.  Take photos of the fresh fish, if possible, to ensure the Taxidermist has
accurate information to refer back to when it's time to paint the fish.

3.  Get the fish on ice as soon as possible.

4.  If you can't get the fish to a Taxidermist immediately, wrap the fish in a wet
towel or wet newspaper, place inside two plastic bags, seal, and place in the
freezer as flat as possible.

5.  Get the fish to a Taxidermist as soon as possible.  Keeping the fish in your
freezer for an extended period of time could result in freezer burn of the fins
and the fish itself, and this could affect the overall appearance of your finished
mount.

SNAKES


1.  Safety is paramount when dealing with these critters.

2.  You can't bash in the head of the snake and expect to have an acceptable
looking mount in the end.  SO DON'T DO THIS.

3.  Take the live snake and place it in a tow sack or other suitable container.  I
prefer to use a five gallon tin bucket that one would buy popcorn in.   Place the
lid securely on the bucket and place the bucket into your freezer.   Freezing the
snake alive may sound cruel but this is the best way of dispatching the beast
and most importantly, the safest way for you.  I prefer to leave the snake in the
freezer for two days before removing it from the bucket.  Contrary to popular
belief, once a snake is frozen, it is dead.  It will not thaw out and come back to
life.  Dead is dead.  The snake will be coiled up very tightly, which makes for a
nice compact package that doesn't take up much freezer space.  You can then
place the snake in a cloth bag or pillow case, seal it tightly and return it to the
freezer.

4.  Get the snake to the Taxidermist as soon as you can to avoid freezer burn and
possible damage to the specimen.

5.  Remember, safety is foremost when dealing with these things.  No mount is
worth getting snake bit over.


LIFE SIZE


1.  If you harvest an animal you intend to have mounted life size, do not skin or
make any incisions of any kind.

2.  Clean as much blood as possible from the specimen and keep it as dry as
possible.

3.  Put the specimen on ice as soon as possible.

4.  If you can't get it to the Taxidermist immediately and choose to store it in your
freezer, wrap the feet (individually) with a plastic bag and tape it securely to
prevent air from getting to the feet.  Also, wrap the head with a plastic bag and
tape securely (this will help to prevent freezer burn to the extremities of the
specimen).  Once this is done, double bag the entire specimen and place it in
your freezer.


ANTLER MOUNT


1.  Do not remove the antlers from the skull.